Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
